Lost the Remote? 7 Ways to Keep Using Your Phone as a Second-Screen Controller After Netflix Killed Casting
Netflix killed casting in Jan 2026 — here are 7 practical ways to keep using your phone as a second-screen controller, from AirPlay to HDMI.
Lost the remote? How to keep using your phone as a second-screen controller after Netflix killed casting
Hook: You’re ready to watch and your remote is nowhere to be found — then Netflix quietly removes mobile casting in January 2026. Panic, right? Not yet. There are practical, reliable ways to use your phone as a second-screen controller and keep streaming, previewing clips, and cueing video shorts on the big screen.
In January 2026 Netflix announced it removed widespread support for mobile casting — a change that broke a lot of second-screen workflows overnight. But casting isn’t the only route. There are seven proven alternatives that keep your phone in control. — The Verge / Lowpass (summary)
Quick overview — the short, actionable answer
If you want to keep using your phone like a remote after Netflix’s change, your fastest options are:
- Use your TV or streaming-device manufacturer app (Samsung SmartThings, Roku app, Fire TV app).
- AirPlay or AirPlay-like receivers (Apple TV, AirPlay-enabled smart TVs, or apps like AirScreen).
- Miracast / Wireless Display (Roku/Windows/Android screen mirroring).
- HDMI adapters or wireless HDMI kits (USB-C/Lightning to HDMI or wireless HDMI transmitters).
- DLNA / UPnP or media-server control (Plex, Jellyfin, Kodi + control apps).
- Legacy Chromecast & limited exceptions (some older Chromecast devices and specific TV models).
- Third-party remote/control ecosystems (Roku deep linking, Amazon Send-to-Device, TV remote APIs).
Why this matters in 2026 — trends shaping second-screen control
Two late-2025 to early-2026 trends make this guide timely and practical:
- Platform fragmentation and DRM tightening. Streaming services are increasingly selective about how protected streams leave their apps; that drives users toward platform-native apps and hardware that support robust DRM.
- Growth of alternative protocols and local media. As cloud casting becomes more restricted, local-first options (DLNA, Plex, HDMI) and AirPlay-compatible ecosystems exploded in popularity.
That means you should design your second-screen workflow around the specific content (DRM-protected vs. local files), the devices you own, and the tasks you want (playback control, queuing clips, previewing shorts).
The 7 practical ways to keep using your phone as a second-screen controller
1. Use your TV or streaming-device manufacturer apps (fastest, most reliable)
Most smart TV makers and streaming platforms offer an official mobile app that acts like a remote — and often more. These apps typically let you:
- Navigate the TV interface (D-pad, keyboard, voice).
- Search across apps and launch the TV’s native Netflix app (or other native streaming apps).
- Control playback (play/pause/seek) when the TV app is playing.
How to set it up (generic steps):
- Install the TV maker or device app: Roku, Amazon Fire TV, Samsung SmartThings, LG ThinQ, Sony/Bravia TV app or Vizio SmartCast Mobile.
- Open the app and follow the pairing steps (both devices on the same Wi‑Fi; a PIN or QR code is common).
- Use the app’s search or keyboard to open Netflix on the TV, then control playback via the app’s transport controls. Power users can expand this with simple automation or orchestration to trigger playlists or app launches from the phone.
Why it works: These apps control the native TV or streaming-device Netflix client directly, so you avoid casting restrictions. If Netflix won’t accept cast traffic, it still runs on the TV app, and your phone is the remote.
2. AirPlay and AirPlay-like receivers (best for iPhone owners)
AirPlay remains the simplest second-screen experience for Apple devices: it’s low-latency, supports protected streams via FairPlay, and is widely supported on Apple TV and many 2024–2026 smart TVs. Netflix’s casting decision targeted the Google Cast flow — AirPlay often continues to work.
How to use AirPlay:
- Confirm your TV or streaming box supports AirPlay 2 (Apple TV, many LG/Samsung/Sony 2020+ models, or an AirPlay receiver app).
- Connect iPhone and TV to the same Wi‑Fi network.
- Open Control Center → Screen Mirroring or tap the AirPlay icon inside compatible apps to send playback to the TV.
Workarounds for non-AirPlay TVs:
- Install an AirPlay receiver app (AirScreen, AirServer) if available in your TV’s app store.
- Use an Apple TV as an AirPlay target if you have one connected to your television.
Limitations: If you want to use an Android phone, you can still bring AirPlay-like functionality to your TV by installing receiver apps on Android TV / Google TV boxes or using third-party devices. Latency and feature parity vary by app.
3. Miracast / Wireless Display (Android & Windows screen mirroring)
Miracast (aka Wireless Display) mirrors your phone or PC screen over Wi‑Fi Direct. It’s a practical alternative when casting is blocked because it’s essentially screen-sharing, not protocol-based casting.
Steps to use Miracast:
- Check your TV or streaming stick supports Miracast (Roku, many Samsung TVs, Windows/Android devices). Some TVs label it “Screen Mirroring” or “Smart View.”
- On Android: Settings → Connected Devices → Cast (or Smart View) → pick the TV. On Windows: Win+K → select the device.
- Accept the connection on the TV, then start your app on the phone; the TV will show what the phone displays.
Pros and cons:
- Pros: Works with most Android phones and Windows PCs, good for local content and apps that block cast but allow screen output.
- Cons: DRM-protected streams may black-screen or degrade in quality; latency can be higher than AirPlay.
4. HDMI adapters and wireless HDMI kits (the most bulletproof option)
Plugging your phone directly into the TV with a cable or a wireless HDMI kit is the most reliable way to keep the phone in control. Because HDMI is a hardware connection, it bypasses many cloud-based cast restrictions — but DRM still applies in some app workflows.
Common hardware:
- USB-C to HDMI 2.1 adapter (for recent Android phones and many Chromebooks).
- Apple Lightning Digital AV Adapter (for older iPhones) or USB-C adapters for iPhone 15+ models with USB-C.
- Wireless HDMI transmitters (Nyrius, IOGEAR, or newer low-latency kits) — these create a 1:1 HDMI bridge without Wi‑Fi.
How to do it:
- Plug the adapter into your phone and HDMI into the TV. Switch the TV to that HDMI input.
- On the phone, select screen mirroring or external display if prompted; many phones mirror automatically.
- Use the phone as normal to play video; the TV will show the output.
Notes on DRM and HDCP: Some streaming apps may reduce quality or block output if the phone or app does not support required HDCP levels. If playback is blocked, use the TV’s native Netflix app and then control the TV with a manufacturer app (see option #1). For deeper reading on legal, privacy and cache/streaming implications tied to protected media, see this guide on legal & privacy implications for cloud caching.
5. DLNA / UPnP and media servers (best for personal clips, shorts, and curated playlists)
If you create video shorts, clips, or curate local media for social formats, running a local media server gives you powerful second-screen control without relying on cloud casting.
Tools that matter:
- Plex — media server + remote control, widely supported on smart TVs and streaming boxes.
- Jellyfin — open-source server with mobile apps and DLNA support.
- Kodi — powerful media center with remote-control apps (Kore) and UPnP renderer capabilities.
How to set it up (Plex example):
- Install Plex Media Server on a PC, NAS, or cloud instance and add your videos.
- Install the Plex app on your TV or streaming device and sign in.
- Open the Plex app on the TV; use the Plex mobile app as a remote to queue items, control playback, and create playlists of shorts/clips.
Benefits: This is ideal for creators who want to preview, sequence, or present short-form content on a TV while keeping the phone as the central controller. For creator-focused workflow tools that bridge phone-first editing and one-button preview actions, see creator workflow tools.
6. Legacy Chromecast, Vizio/Compal exceptions, and local casting apps
Netflix’s January 2026 change removed casting to many devices, but a small set of older Chromecast dongles, Nest Hub, and select Vizio/Compal TVs kept support. If you own one of those devices, mobile casting may still work for you.
Apps to try:
- LocalCast, BubbleUPnP, and AllCast — these third-party apps help send local media to smart TVs and renderers, including DLNA and some Chromecast targets.
- VLC for mobile — can act as a renderer or cast to DLNA/Chromecast devices for local media.
Practical tip: If your casting stops working for streaming apps like Netflix, use these third-party apps for local content and fallback playback; for Netflix content, switch to the TV’s native Netflix app and use a manufacturer remote app.
7. Third-party ecosystems, developer APIs, and deep-link controls
For power users and creators who need automated workflows, several platforms let phones act as powerful controllers by launching apps, sending deep links, or using remote-control APIs.
Examples:
- Roku — Roku’s mobile app can launch channels and control playback; developers can use Roku’s ECP (External Control Protocol) to send commands over the local network.
- Amazon Fire TV — Amazon’s app and some developer APIs enable remote control and content launching.
- Custom scripts — Use simple HTTP calls or Home Assistant automations and orchestration to open the TV Netflix app and play a specific title when pairing conditions are met.
How creators use this: Many social video producers build a one-button “preview on big screen” action that triggers the TV to open a playlist in Plex or a channel in Roku and begin playback, all while the phone remains the remote control. Learn more about live and creator monetization workflows in our companion piece on live Q&A and live podcasting.
Troubleshooting guide — common problems and fixes
Here’s a checklist to diagnose why your phone won’t control the TV:
- Same Wi‑Fi network? Make sure phone and TV/device are on the same network band (2.4 GHz vs 5 GHz can cause issues).
- No VPNs or traffic filters. VPNs can block local discovery protocols like mDNS, UPnP, or SSDP — see guidance on network caching and privacy in this legal & privacy guide.
- App updates. Update both the phone app and the TV/streaming device firmware.
- DRM/HDCP blocks. If protected content blackscreens or downscales via HDMI or mirroring, try the TV’s native app + manufacturer remote app instead.
- Firewall or router settings. UPnP and multicast must be enabled on consumer routers for discovery.
- Restart devices. Reboot phone, TV, and router — it fixes the majority of pairing issues.
Workflows for creators and social formats (shorts and clips)
If you make vertical video shorts or curated clip compilations, here are workflow templates that use the phone as a second-screen controller:
Workflow A — Preview & sequence shorts on the big screen (Plex or Jellyfin)
- Upload edited shorts to a Plex/Jellyfin library on your laptop or NAS.
- Open Plex/Jellyfin on the TV and sign in, or install the TV client.
- Use the mobile app to create a playlist and queue shorts for playback on the TV; use the phone to scrub and time markers for clip review.
Workflow B — Test cuts and transitions via HDMI mirroring
- Connect phone to TV with USB-C/Lightning to HDMI adapter.
- Open your editing app (CapCut, LumaFusion, Premiere Rush) and play the preview on the TV while you fine-tune on the phone.
Workflow C — Live demos or watch parties (AirPlay + Apple TV)
- Use AirPlay to mirror your phone or to push content to Apple TV.
- Use the phone as controller to jump between clips and display captions or notes while the TV shows the full-screen video. If you need watch-party friendly ideas, check out this handy guide to hosting a pajama watch party.
Device compatibility quick reference (2026 snapshot)
Here’s a concise compatibility map so you can pick the fastest path given what you already own:
- iPhone + Apple TV / AirPlay-enabled TV: AirPlay — best experience for streaming and protected content.
- Android phone + Roku / Fire TV / Samsung TV: Manufacturer mobile apps or Miracast; Plex/Jellyfin for local content.
- Android phone + older Chromecast dongle (pre-remote models): Legacy Chromecast casting may still work in limited cases.
- Phone with USB-C (modern Android + newer iPhone USB‑C models): USB-C to HDMI adapter — most reliable for local mirroring.
- Any phone + wireless HDMI kit: Hardware wireless HDMI is DRM-agnostic for many local files and can be low-latency for demos.
Security, privacy, and performance tips
- Use a trusted app-store app or the TV’s official app to avoid malicious AirPlay/Miracast receivers.
- Avoid open Wi‑Fi networks for streaming — local discovery is safer on your home network.
- If latency is a concern for live demos, prefer wired HDMI or high-quality wireless HDMI transmitters over Wi‑Fi mirroring.
Actionable takeaways — what to do right now
- If you own an Apple device and an Apple TV or AirPlay-enabled TV, use AirPlay for the smoothest second-screen control.
- Install your TV or streaming device’s official mobile app now (Roku, Samsung SmartThings, Fire TV) — they’re the fastest fallback for Netflix and other protected apps.
- For creators: set up a Plex or Jellyfin server this week to control and queue your shorts and clip playlists from your phone — and read up on creator tooling that speeds the preview workflow (click-to-video tools).
- Keep a reliable HDMI adapter in your bag or media kit — it’s the most future-proof option when wireless protocols get changed unexpectedly.
Final notes: adapt your setup for 2026 and beyond
Netflix’s January 2026 removal of casting support accelerated a trend that was already underway: platforms are locking down specific remote protocols and nudging users toward native TV apps and platform-specific streaming experiences. The good news for viewers and creators is that the hardware and software ecosystem is packed with alternatives. From AirPlay to HDMI adapters, and from DLNA media servers to manufacturer mobile apps, you can keep your phone as the central control surface for the big-screen experience.
Which method you pick depends on the content (DRM-protected vs local), your devices, and whether you prioritize latency, simplicity, or media workflow control. For most people the quickest path is the TV maker's app + native TV Netflix client. For creators, a Plex/Jellyfin workflow or wired HDMI preview will save time and give predictable results.
Resources & recommended apps
- Roku Mobile App (iOS/Android)
- Amazon Fire TV App (iOS/Android)
- Samsung SmartThings / Samsung TV Remote (iOS/Android)
- Plex, Jellyfin, Kodi + remote apps (Plex mobile, Jellyfin mobile, Kore for Kodi)
- AirScreen / AirServer (AirPlay receiver apps for compatible TVs)
- LocalCast, BubbleUPnP, VLC (for local media casting/rendering)
- For creators: gear and streaming setup guides and field reviews (see this field review of microphones & cameras).
Call to action
If you found this guide useful, do two quick things: 1) Save or share this article — it’ll help friends who’ve lost their remotes, and 2) Subscribe to our Multimedia newsletter for weekly workflows on video shorts, clip sequencing, and second-screen tactics optimized for 2026’s streaming landscape. Need a checklist for your living-room setup? Click to download our one-page “Phone-as-Remote” checklist and test routine.
Need personalized help? Tell us which devices you own (phone model, TV/streaming box), and we’ll send a step-by-step setup tailored to your gear.
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